The Arc At Chantilly: N'Ayez Pas Peur

About a month before this year's Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe, the French-language publication Jour de Galop devoted an entire edition giving guidance to those wishing to attend the Arc this year at Chantilly. “Don't be afraid,” they advised.

Much like the Breeders' Cup last year at Keeneland, the Arc at Chantilly was a large-format event coming to a smaller-than-usual stage, and in the months leading up to the event, many annual attendees told me they were going to sit this one out, anticipating a traffic nightmare, overcrowding, long lines and nowhere to sit.

But Sunday's Arc was an organizational home run for France-Galop and Chantilly, who not only played host to a historic result along the lines of Michael Dickinson's five-home-first in the Cheltenham Gold Cup of 1983, but did so in magnificent style, with no hitches that I could discern.

I decided to go to the Arc a month ago, and by that time, was unable to secure a seat in the grandstand or any of the restaurants, but took the JDG's advice to have no fear and, armed with only my media credential, plunged ahead. Arriving in Chantilly Friday morning, it was obvious that not only was the town entirely behind the event, but that the organizational system was in place to host it.

Packets were left in every hotel room with the day's card, directions, and timings. Billboards and signs were everywhere throughout Chantilly and neighboring towns, not only promoting the day, but directing where you should go if you had infield village tickets, where buses should head, where the media should park, and more. “Have your e-tickets out and ready,” they warned.

I heard earlier this year that Chantilly was home to only 500 hotel rooms, and while most people stayed in Paris and made the 30-minute train ride, I secured a room in Chantilly and rented a car, steeling myself for the traffic nightmare that I had been told would inevitably ensue.

In America, race days are long and the gates open early. Travers Day finds thousands of people outside the gate at 7 a.m., lined up and ready to rush for their seats. The first race happens six hours later, and the Travers almost 12. In France, the day is far more civilized. Gates for the public opened at 11, with a first-race post of 2p.m. The Arc was the fourth race on the card, with a post time around 4. Even those with no seating could spend an enjoyable four or five hours at the track.

I left the hotel at 12:20, prepared for the worst of the traffic scenarios, hoping I wouldn't miss the Marcel Boussac at 2:45. Along the way to the track, dozens, if not hundreds, of Arc-jacketed traffic attendants lined the road, keeping the traffic moving and blasting anyone who slowed even momentarily with a shrill whistle. We pulled into the parking lot at 12:29.

An army of bar-code e-ticket-scanning officers whisked people inside. Lines were non-existent, despite the reported crowd of around 30,000 people.

The Arc was blessed with beautiful weather, mid-sixties and sunny, and the crowd made the most of it. Early arrivals spread a blanket on the grassy slopes overlooking the course in front of the grandstand and spent the day. Others perched on high tops and barstools that had been spread throughout the back yard for the day. Benches were plentiful. Two men found portable chairs and set them up on the slope by the finish line, creating their own premium seating.

Betting lines were manageable, with extra automated machines and attendants in the backyard. Port-a-johns discreetly lined the outside fencing, ensuring there were no lines, and food trucks and ice cream carts dotted the public areas to feed the crowd. The most popular offering were the “New York-style” hot dogs, served in a very un-New York French baguette, and a truck called “Bagels and Burgers” which saw steady lines all day. Champagne flowed everywhere, inside the permanent grandstand and outside at temporary stands, where bottles of Tattinger were going for €79, and came with a clear plastic carrying case filled with ice to keep the wine chilled. Early in the day, virtually everyone I saw had a flute in hand. Those lucky enough to be upstairs in the Restaurant Panamorique were treated to a fantastic view and a great meal, whose cuisine was complimented by the likes of no less than Bobby Flay.

With Chantilly situated in the middle of a forest, with a few, small access roads in and out of it, I feared what leaving the track might be like, picturing GI Belmont S. 2014, where thousands of people were left stranded in lots for hours, and I considered missing the last of the seven races to beat the traffic. Instead, we left at what might have been the worst possible point all day to do so, 10 minutes after the running of the last race, when crowds were streaming from the track. The event staff guided the crowd onto buses which shuttled them to the train station. The driveways were kept clear of pedestrians to keep the traffic moving. I got in my car at 6:39, hoping to make an 8:30 dining reservation in town. I was back at the hotel at 6:48.

With the announcement that the Arc would return to Chantilly next year, officials at France-Galop certainly learned something from Sunday's test, and will invariably prepare for larger crowds in 2017 with this successful renewal under their belt.

Said Olivier Delloye, France-Galop's director general, “In short, I'd say that we are very satisfied with this first Arc in Chantilly which I think has been a real success. Over the two days, the attendance has exceeded 40,000 people, which is satisfactory. The atmosphere was great and I could really feel very positive vibes throughout the weekend. The whole team has done a great job to ensure a smooth organization in all areas. Well done to them.”

Well done, indeed. While I talked to people who decided to make the trip two weeks ago and still secured a room in the town's nicest hotel, the Auburge du Jeu de Paume, those planning a trip next year would be advised to book their track seating or dining early. Staying in Chantilly was easy and convenient, and the hardest thing to overcome all week was that the town's most popular restaurants were all booked on Friday and Saturday nights. Secure reservations early for 2017.

But as well as this year's event went, officials feel they can step their game up another notch. Said Delloye, “There are a number of adjustments to consider, but this first attempt was really good enough to consider the 2017 edition with serenity and optimism. That will be the second and last Arc at Chantilly before the reopening of Longchamp. Not to be missed.”

N'Ayez Pas Peur.