Normandy resident and regular TDN contributor Alix Choppin uses her local knowledge to offer overseas visitors some valuable pointers on where to eat, drink and be merry after a long day at the Arqana sales
Despite being home to no more than 5,000 souls in the heart of winter, Deauville in summertime turns into a buzzy, sleepless town where restaurants, bars, clubs and countless sorts of hybrid eating/drinking/partying venues combine to make stay-at-home nights an unlikely option.
Perhaps one of the most iconic venues, to the extent that its name will sound to many readers almost synonymous with after-racing/sales chill out is Le Brok. The small, narrow bar with a sunbathed terrace recently underwent a change of ownership after the infamous Phiphi, aka 'Mojito World Champion', retired. Following a thorough renovation, Le Brok reopened with a fresh look and concept. Gone is the Cuban theme, however, house cocktails remain the signature product. Light food can also be enjoyed, making it the ideal place to relax and recharge after a day of pushing your step count through a combination of yearling inspections and top-class racing.
Alongside the picturesque boardwalk 'les planches', which was created just a century ago, Ciro's is another flagship venue to have been fully revamped and renovated. First opened in July 1959, this institution of sophisticated gastronomy serves the finest seafood as well as traditional French dishes and patisseries, with the sunset as a stunning backdrop.
Several more casual options have popped up on the beach in recent years and make for a hard-to-beat experience to round off a hot summer day. The historic Les Ammonites has now been joined by the aptly named Sunset Beach, La Paillotte and the latest addition La Villa Sur La Plage. For an early evening drink or an outdoor dinner to the sounds of DJ vibes, there is clearly no better way of making the most of summertime.
Just off the beach, in the Casino basement, Noto is the new hub for festive dinners and clubbing warm-ups. Launched by leading 'gastrotainment' group Moma, which also operates venues in Paris, Saint-Tropez, Miami and Marrakech, it celebrates Italian cuisine with a jet-set twist. The risotto al tartufo (truffle risotto), served in a wheel of Pecorino cheese for the whole table, is a must-have. Live music brings a warm ambiance to the lavishly decorated room, and ensures a smooth transition towards Leone Discoteca, formerly known as Regine's, which is literally next door.
After such rich delicacies and a long night out, those looking for a light lunch in town will enjoy Le Yacht, a brasserie with unheralded potential in my view. Located on the vibrant market square, it serves delicious crepes, salads and fresh fish throughout the day, with a fascinating outlook on the vegetable, cheese and clothing stalls that take over the square every Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings.
Just around the corner, Fanfaron remains – legitimately so – one of the most popular eateries among racing folks, while pizzeria Santa Lucia needs no more introduction. And for those with enough time and leg power to wander across the bridge to Deauville's sister town of Trouville, there are just as many attractive venues over there. The greatest challenge while staying in Deauville might prove to be finding enough room to sample all those yummy delicacies, and enough stamina to keep up with the most battle-hardened regulars.
Not a subscriber? Click here to sign up for the daily PDF or alerts.
